Setting Up A Betta Tank (The Right Way!)

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Betta fish thrive in the right environment, especially one that is spacious with natural features and places to hide. But setting up a betta tank is not always as easy as it may seem.

There are several things to consider when setting up a betta tank for the first time, such as:

1. How to choose a betta tank.
2. Choosing a betta tank light.
3. Choosing a substrate for a betta tank.
4. Adding a heater and filter to your betta tank.
5. Adding water to your betta tank.
6. Choosing plants and ornaments.
7. And finally, add your betta to its newly set-up tank.

While learning how to set up a betta fish tank is not difficult, there are some things to keep in mind. Setting everything up correctly to start will speed up the entire process and make your first betta fish tank setup more successful.

This article will teach you, step-by-step, how to set up a betta tank, with some helpful tips to make your betta’s new environment feel like home.

Make sure to check out our Betta Fish Care Guide And Species Overview.

How To Set Up A Betta Fish Tank

I will list the steps that I use when setting up a new tank which is the same for most tanks, but there are a few differences. A betta tank is best set up using the following steps:

1. How To Choose A Betta Tank

The most important step in setting up your new betta tank is choosing the correct tank size. Betta fish are used to living in rice paddies and small, slow-moving streams, so you may think you can buy a small aquarium that doesn’t provide much space. The truth is that betta fish like plenty of space and room to move around.

A betta tank that is too small can dramatically affect your betta’s lifespan, as they may become stressed and suffer health issues in a tiny tank. Water parameters are also very difficult to maintain in smaller tanks.

You also need to decide if other fish will be joining your betta in the aquarium and, if so, what size of fish. Betta fish are not good with larger, more aggressive fish that can bully them or invade their space.

Bettas are also aggressive toward other members of their own species, hence the name Siamese Fighting Fish. If you are setting up a male and female betta tank, be aware that aggression may be a problem, so do some extra research to find the right type of tank mates.

Male bettas tend to be more aggressive than female bettas, as they defend their territory, food sources, and potential mating partners. Female bettas tend to be much more docile than male betta fish, so betta sorority tanks are a solution for more experienced aquarists.

Get A Tank With A Lid

I also recommend getting a tank with a lid as betta fish can jump quite high and may end up leaping over the rim of the tank, causing themselves an injury, or worse, they may not be found for several hours, causing them to dry up and die.

Not all betta fish jump, especially if they are settled and happy, and there are plenty of ways to reduce jumping behavior, but the best solution is to find a tank with a tight-fitting lid. Ensure the lid is high enough so your betta can still jump without hitting the top.

If your tank choice doesn’t have a lid, lower the water level a little, add plenty of plants or surface plants to restrict jumping, or consider attaching a makeshift perspex rim around the top of the tank.

Where To Put A Betta Tank

As with any freshwater or saltwater fish tank, it is always wise to position the tank in areas away from windows and direct sunlight. The heat from direct sunlight can cause the water temperature to rise through the day and drop drastically at night. Direct sunlight also encourages algae growth which is best avoided.

Betta fish also prefer environments with subdued lighting, so ensure you set up your tank with this in mind. Only place your tank close to a window if the sunlight is diffused or doesn’t directly hit the tank.

Avoid positioning your betta tank in draughty areas, especially if you don’t have a heater. Cold areas can lower water temperature and make the tank uncomfortable for your betta fish. If your tank does have a heater, it will need to work much harder to maintain the correct temperature, often leading to premature failure.

3. Choosing Betta Tank Substrate

A substrate is what covers the bottom of a fish tank. Gravel substrates are the most common, but you can also use sand, rocks, pebbles, soil, and clay to create your desired look.

Best Substrate For Bettas

Several types of substrate are suitable for a betta tank, so it ultimately depends on the look you want to achieve. Sand, gravel, and pebbles are most commonly used, but clay is found in a betta’s natural habitat, so it can also be considered.

Let’s take a quick look at the pros and cons of each.

Sand

Although not the most common substrate found in their natural habitat, sand is a good, all-around, natural-looking substrate that betta fish like.

Pros

• Sand may cloud the water when cleaned, but it settles quickly.
• Sand is soft and unlikely to damage your betta’s delicate fins.
• Sand is similar in texture to areas where some betta fish originate.
• Waste particles are easily removed from sand substrates.

Cons

• Some areas of the sand substrate can be easily dislodged when cleaning, adding water, or due to fish rubbing against it. Regular raking may be necessary.
• When cleaning with a siphon or vacuum, fine particles of sand can be easily sucked out of the tank and, over time, will need replacing.
• Plants require deeper sand for roots to take hold in comparison to heavier substrates.

Gravel

Gravel substrate is more commonly found in a bettas natural environment, and it is the easiest to maintain. When vacuuming with a gravel siphon, trapped food and waste are easy to dislodge without the risk of gravel being washed away.

Pros

• Gravel is a low-cost sturdy substrate.
• Gravel has a texture found in most natural habitats.
• Gravel is light enough that waste is easily removed through vacuuming.
• Plants can root easily in gravel.
• There are many different colors and varieties of gravel substrate to create a unique style for your tank.

Cons

• Fish often rub against gravel and rocks to scratch or remove foreign objects. Some gravel can be sharp and cause damage to delicate betta fins.
• On rare occasions, fish can actually swallow small particles of gravel that become stuck and prevent eating.

Pebbles

Pebble substrates are another good choice for betta fish. The smooth edges are gentle on bettas fins, reducing the likelihood of injury when rubbing against it. Larger gaps allow trapped waste to be easily removed when cleaned, but it’s a little trickier to move a vacuum through.

Pros

• Pebbles are found in most natural habitats that betta fish originate from.
• Pebbles tend to have smooth edges that reduce injuries to fins and scales.
• Waste sits nearer the surface and is easier to remove.
• Plants can root easily in pebble substrates.
• Pebbles come in a variety of colors and shapes.

Cons

• None to be concerned about.

Clay

Clay is probably the substrate most commonly found in a betta’s natural habitat, but it is not the easiest to clean and maintain, so it’s not widely used in betta tank setups.

Pros

• Clay is the most natural choice if you need to replicate a betta’s natural habitat.
• Plants root easily in clay substrate.

Cons

• The soft but thick texture is very difficult to clean, enabling waste and bacteria to build up.

Sand, gravel, and pebble substrates are all suitable if you want to introduce live plants, and they can be purchased in a variety of colors, sizes, and coarseness, allowing you to set up the perfect appearance for your new tank.

How To Add Substrate To Your Betta Tank

When adding substrate to your betta tank, you need to prepare it first by thoroughly washing it in a bucket of clean, soap-free warm water.

Once clean, spread the substrate evenly around the base of your aquarium. If you have chosen a gravel or pebble substrate, be careful not to crack the glass or scratch the acrylic of your tank.

Substrate Depth

The depth of the substrate depends on what type you’re adding. A sandy substrate needs to be about an inch deep, while gravel can go up to two inches. If you are adding plants, a deeper substrate will help roots to take hold.

There is no specific rule for substrate depth except that too much is hard to clean, and too little will cause gaps to continually appear, revealing the base of the tank.

4. Adding A Heater And Filter

Once you have added substrate to your betta tank, you will need a heater and a filter. Betta fish are tropical fish originating from the warm Asian climate, where they enjoy warm tropical water temperatures.

Installing A Filter And Heater

Check both the heater and filter for damaged or exposed wires and electricals before putting them in your tank. They are designed to be placed in water, so they are safe to use.

Heaters should be placed on the back of the tank, and filters should be positioned at one end. Position the filter outlet at the water surface. As water is expelled from the filter, it causes some surface disturbance which helps to oxygenate the tank water.

Set the heater to the correct temperature, 78°F to 80°F (25.5°C – 26.7°C). While your betta tank is being prepared, regularly check the temperature and adjust the heater setting until the correct temperature has been reached.

Most heaters and filters can be positioned quite easily by suction cups. An analog or digital thermometer should be placed away from the heater element so that it only records the water temperature.

How To Setup A Betta Fish Tank Without Filter

Setting up a betta tank without a filter is possible but typically requires more frequent water changes and regular monitoring of water parameters.

The best way to set up a betta tank without a filter is to choose a 20 gallon tank or larger. Small tanks are difficult to maintain as waste builds up too quickly, and oxygen levels rapidly fall.

Large tanks should be heavily planted to provide oxygen for the growth of beneficial bacteria, and a thick layer of substrate will provide a healthy breeding ground for the bacteria.

A healthy environment for bacteria growth increases the level of biological filtration, reducing the need for mechanical filtration.

Biological filtration alone is not as effective in a contained environment such as an aquarium and requires extra effort on your part to reduce the buildup of waste.

If you do have a filterless aquarium, some tips I recommend following are:

• Reduce feeding times and portions to prevent waste building up.
• Regulate the temperature for healthy tank conditions to enhance biological filtration.
• Regularly check for spikes in ammonia and nitrites so you can intervene before they get out of hand.
• Frequent water changes (weekly or bi-weekly) of 15% – 25% to help control waste buildup and ammonia.
• Use biological enhancers to feed the good bacteria and keep their levels high.

Although it’s possible to set up a betta tank without a filter, the added time and effort required to maintain the tank can be easily avoided with the addition of a cheap sponge filter.

5. Adding Water To Your Betta Tank

Now you are ready to add some water to your betta’s aquarium. Adding water is not just a case of filling it up with tap water, several processes need to take place before the water is ready for new fish.

How do you set up a betta tank water?

Setting up betta tank water is done the same way as for other freshwater fish tanks and is based on several factors.

The steps to prepare your betta tank water are:

1. Fill your tank with water – Tap water is fine for betta fish, but location dictates if your tap water is soft or heavy in minerals and other impurities. Treat all tap water with a suitable water conditioner to remove contaminants such as chlorine. Alternatives to tap water are mineral water, spring water, or distilled water.
2. Cycle your tank water – New fish tank water can be a harsh environment, either containing too much bacteria or too little bacteria, along with toxic chemicals. Over several weeks your aquarium water develops an ecosystem full of oxygen, bacteria, and necessary chemical compounds, all creating stability and an inhabitable environment for fish.
3. Monitor and measure – You will need to closely monitor your water parameters for several weeks. The water will likely become cloudy as bacteria breed. As the cloudiness settles, test that all water parameters fall within acceptable levels before adding your betta fish.

Never add your betta to a tank that hasn’t been correctly prepared, as it can suffer from new tank syndrome, a condition that can cause shock. New tank syndrome causes several health issues and can even be fatal if ignored. I explain about new tank syndrome later in this article.

How Long Should Water Sit Before Adding Betta Fish?

When initially filling a tank with water, it should sit for approximately 4 to 6 weeks while certain chemical and biological processes take place to make it habitable for your betta fish.

When setting up a betta tank, it’s possible to add fish within two weeks, which often helps speed up tank cycling (also known as fish-in cycling), but take extra care to check that water parameters stay within the safe ranges specific to betta fish tank requirements.

You can find a more detailed explanation of tank cycling and water parameters in the next sections.

Cycling A Betta Tank

Cycling a fish tank is a process that allows a tank to produce its own bacteria and become a self-sustaining ecosystem. The good bacteria grow or multiply and help to normalize ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels, allowing the water to properly oxygenate.

Cycling a betta tank, just like any aquarium, takes time and is commonly called a fishless cycle. Running a heater and filter during the cycling phase will help to speed up the process as beneficial bacteria grow within the filter media and are distributed into the main water column as it passes through the filter.

Biological enhancers provide an immediate hit of good bacteria, also speeding up the cycling process. A Biological enhancer is a useful way to kick-start the natural process within your aquarium, and they are commonly used for emergency cycling a fish tank.

Ideal Betta Water Parameters

Before it’s safe to add your betta fish, water conditions should sit within the correct parameters, otherwise, you risk your fish’s health, causing them stress.

The nitrogen cycle ensures that toxic ammonia gets eliminated from the tank, with most of it turning to non-toxic nitrates due to the presence of nitrifying bacteria.

During the fishless cycle, the ideal water parameters you should be aiming for are:

Parameter	Target Value
Temperature	78°-82° Fahrenheit (25.0° – 27.5° Celsius)
Water pH level	Between 6.5 and 7
Ammonia levels	Should be 0 mg/L or less
Nitrite levels	Should be 0 mg/L or less, but more than 0mg/L is not too serious an issue in a cycled tank

Use a test kit to check water parameters and keep a thermometer in the tank for easy reference to the current water temperature.

By allowing your tank to sit for long enough before adding your betta fish, all parameters should fall within acceptable levels when testing.

Get to know your tank by testing the water more frequently in the beginning, and you will learn how often water changes are necessary.

6. Choosing Plants And Ornaments

Setting up a betta tank is not just about parameters and equipment, you should try to make it feel like their natural environment. Adding a few plants and ornaments will help bring a natural feel to the tank.

Live plants are best as they aid the natural biological cycle of your tank by providing food and oxygen, but you can also use silk or plastic plants.

The best plants for a betta are live plants that provide good coverage and hiding spots.

A few plants that are recommended are:

• Anubias
• Java Fern
• Hornwort

Some ornaments that I recommend are:

• Wooden Logs – This is a good source of cover for betta fish and also offers shelter to other small invertebrates. It will provide your aquarium with some decoration while providing a natural setting because it has a natural look and feel.
• Marimo Moss Balls – These are another good source of cover for betta fish, but they can also provide shelter to invertebrates that keep your tank clean and healthy, eating excess food particles to help with the biological cycle.
• Plant Pot – A simple plant pot, even a broken one, will provide shady areas for your betta fish to hide.

Make sure new plants and ornaments have been rinsed and are free of chemicals before adding them to your aquarium. Plants can carry diseases, parasites, and other pests that you don’t want to bring into your new aquarium.

Find more examples of ornaments suitable for betta tanks on Amazon or Chewy.

7. How To Put Betta In A New Tank

The final step is adding your betta to their new tank, which can be tricky the first time.

Your new betta fish may become stressed, which you will know if their fins are clamped, and they dart about on top of the water’s surface. Stress is likely to be caused by spending too much time in isolation.

To avoid serious health problems from stress, it is important for your betta to adjust to the new water conditions in their new tank, which is a process called acclimatization.

How To Acclimate Betta Fish

Now that your new tank has been set up correctly, you need to know how to add a betta fish to a new tank. Acclimatization is important, and there are a few steps to follow.

Step 1. Add some water from the newly set up tank into the bag or container with your new betta fish. This will help them gradually adjust to the different water types and temperatures.

Step 2. After around 10-15 minutes, take the container or bag with your betta fish and float it in its new tank so that the water temperature in the container slowly adjusts and your betta can see their new surroundings before being released.

Step 3. Put some food into their new tank to give them some focus and let them know their new environment is one where they can relax.

Step 4. Release your betta gently by gently tipping their container or netting them with your hands behind their head and slowly releasing them.

Your new betta should now be well-acclimatized to its new tank, and you shouldn’t witness any problems.

New Tank Syndrome

Once in the new tank, there is a possibility that your betta will suffer “New Tank Syndrome,” a condition where your betta won’t eat, has clamped fins, darts about the tank, or hides a lot.

Although these behaviors are generally caused by the stress of a new environment, the actual cause of new tank syndrome is a tank that has not been correctly cycled and is still not ready for fish.

When setting up a new tank, it is important to take the time and do everything right. Water needs to be tested for correct parameters and oxygenation.

New tank syndrome is unlikely if you have followed my steps, so any odd behaviors are most likely be caused by stress, especially if they have been in a confined space for an extended period of time.

Provided the stress is not caused by poor water conditions, your betta should be fine in a few days, and they will get used to their new home.

Enjoy Your New Betta Tank

Well done for setting up your new betta tank. Now that you have done it once, it will be much easier the next time. The steps involved are similar for setting up any new freshwater aquarium except for recommended substrates, plants, and ornaments. Some fish also prefer different water parameters than betta fish, so do the required research and tweak as necessary.

Hopefully, you will enjoy your new betta fish and won’t have too many problems along the way. Just feed your betta correctly with a mixture of frozen foods and live food, avoid overfeeding, and give them a balanced diet. Feeding with live foods is also recommended from time to time.

Frequently Asked Questions

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